沙壩是越南北部高原地區老街省沙壩縣的縣政府所在地。它與越南最高峰潘西邦峰(Phan Xi Păng)相鄰,地理位置約海拔1500米,周圍被高山包圍。它的梯田,曾被評選為世界七大美麗梯田之一。既然到了北越,迷戀梯田景色的Susanna,當然不想錯失一覽梯田的壯觀景色。說到沙壩,這裡四處都有黑苗人和紅頭瑤的踪跡。從開始的好奇,到後來看到他們就很想逃,不因為他們的熱情,而是他們的博同情、強銷售的蠻勁。因為大部分稻田已經插秧,正值農休,婦女小孩都到鎮上來售賣農作物,或是成群地跟著遊客走、兜售他們的手工紀念品。這些東西單價不高,但是買一家的,必被其他家的糾纏,為了省事,還是得狠下心來什麽都不買。這真不知是該怪遊客破壞了他們樸素的生活,還是??
[EN] Sapa, or Sa Pa, is a frontier township and capital of Sa Pa District in Lào Cai Province in north-west Vietnam. It overlooks the terraced rice fields of the Muong Hoa Valley, and is near the 3,143m height Phan Xi Păng peak, which is climbable via a steep, multiday guided walk. These make Sapa a popular trekking base. We have selected Sapa as one of our destination because of its rice terraces which has been recommended at one of the seven most beautiful terraces of the world. Most of the local people are Hmong and Red Yao. When we arrived the bus station, we’re surrounded by Hmong women and children immediately. We’re curious about them at first, but we’re later really scared by their continued approachings to sell something to us. Although the souvenirs were not expensive, you would be “pushed” to buy more from others after you bought one. Thus, regardless of their smile or kindness, we had to ignore them to avoid problems.
沙壩市場。
Sapa Market.
巴士站就在沙壩市場前。
The bus station is just in front of Sapa Market.
巴士還未停下,這些黑苗人就趕緊圍上,我們心裡一緊,該不會一下車就成了她們的獵物吧?
Our bus didn’t stop yet, but the local Hmong people already started to gather toward our bus!
好在旅社有派車來接我們,躲過了第一襲。
Fortunately, we’re picked up by travel agency.
桃子都用竹片編程的袋子提著。
這種小女孩背著弟弟妹妹的很多。
Elder sister’s carrying her younger sister or brother.
走在前面的,應該是他們的媽媽吧?
It seems like their mum walking in front of them.
繡球花。
民族服裝。
我們的酒店就在這坡道上。隔壁家在施工,工人在運泥。
Our hotel is located along this path.
得提著行李走一小段坡路。
So, need to walk upward to arrive our hotel.
潘西邦景觀酒店。
Hotel Fansipan View.
呵呵,在大堂就看到荷蘭文的廣告。
Dutch ads at lobby.
我們拿的是兩間比鄰的房間。
We’ve two rooms next to each other.
房間的窗外景色。這是沙壩最大的維多利亞酒店。
Views from our room. This’s the largest hotel in Sapa, Hotel Victoria Sapa.
右上角是含龍山的觀景台。
兩間房都是一雙人床,帶一單人床。
Both rooms had one double bed and one single bed.
為求簡單,我們就在酒店的附屬餐廳用午餐。
To keep simple, we just went to the hotel’s restaurant to have our lunch.
老外少不了他的涼菜。
For sure, beer for Bart!
越南咖啡。
Vietnamese coffee.
等待上菜。
Waiting for our meals.
漂亮的黑苗妹妹來了。
Beautiful Hmong girls.
番茄豆腐。
Tomato tofu.
咖哩雞飯。
Curry chicken rice.
鐵板魷魚。
Grilled squid.
聚集在我們酒店門口的黑苗人。
Hmong women were sitting in front of the entrance of our hotel.
繡花、聊天、溜手機的都有。
Sewing, talking or playing smartphone. Yes, they’re modernized as you and me already!
餐廳外的矮牆和園藝。
開始在沙壩鎮上走走。
Take a walk in Sapa town area.
酒店提供的小地圖。
Map provided by our hotel.
蘭花。
Orchid.
牛肉乾。
Beef jerky.
核仁乾果。
Dried fruit and nuts.
竹筒飯。
Bamboo rice.
沙壩的地標之一:教堂。
One of the landmark of Sapa: Holy Rosary Church, or the Stone Church.
教堂門口聚集的人們。
The church was closed and people just gathered at the front door.
從教堂旁拐個彎,就是沙壩的大街。
銀器首飾、煙管等等,還有正紅花油。
下坡的小巷。
Side street.
蘆笙。
曬乾的野菇。
Dried mushrooms.
紅頭瑤的婦女。
Red Yao women.
小店的啤酒和飲料。
就地而坐,忙著繡花。
俯視坡下的房子。
梅子的季節。
用的是空心紅磚。
這很漂亮,像是把芭蕉的花砍下來的擺飾。
山色。
Mountain view.
撿塑膠瓶子的大媽。
Searching for plastic bottles.
往回走到剛剛路過的小巷,去看看當地的市場。
Walked back to the side street, to catch some pictures of the local market.
這不是遊客來的地方。
This’s not a common place for tourists.
前面這位在搓麻線。
豆腐和瓜苗。
河蟹。
River crabs.
活魚。
Fresh fishes.
蛤蜊。
蔬菜水果,有走菜巴剎(菜市場)的感覺。
碳烤鴨。
BBQ roasted ducks.
鴨子就串在機械轉動的鐵支上。
用的是車用電池。
碳烤芋頭和蕃薯,我們買了幾個小芋頭來試試,不錯。
Roasted yams and sweet potatos.
搓麻線。
Making linen thread.
快走回教堂附近了。
Nearby the Stone Church.
教堂前的廣場。
Square in front of the Stone Church.
在公園草地上就地休息的母子。
Mother and kid were sleeping at the park.
回酒店休息一下。
Back to hotel to have a short nap.