Category Archives: 〔17〕返馬

【17返馬】20170716。姆魯 Mulu (8) 清水洞 Clearwater Cave

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清水洞長222公里(2017年的勘察數據),為世界第八長、內容積最大的岩洞體系。這次觀光的清水洞為此岩洞體系西南方的主洞,此處為清水洞體系最早被發現的洞口,洞深約15哩,為地下河清水河的出口地帶。在探險考察工程進行了約40年後,體系的長度已達222公里。在探險隊從風洞找到通往清水洞的通道後,風洞也被列入清水洞體系。我們參觀的主洞有完善的步道規劃,入洞後先去參觀其側邊少女洞尾端的深坑,再去主洞繞一圈,欣賞地下河清水河的河道及石灰岩洞景色,為此程精彩絕色的壓軸戲。
The Clearwater Cave System (Malay: Gua Air Jernih) in Gunung Mulu National Park is believed to be the largest interconnected cave system in the world by volume and the 8th longest cave in the world at 222 km (2017). The system lies mainly under the western margins of Gunung Api between the Melinau Gorge and Cave of the Winds. The first exploration by speleologists was during the 1977/78 Royal Geographical Society Mulu Sarawak Expedition when 15 miles of the cave passage were surveyed. Many expeditions by the Mulu Caves Project have increased the explored length and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.” — from wikipedia. Clearwater Cave is located at the southwest of the Clearwater Cave System, and it is the downstream of Clearwater, one of the biggest known underground rivers (more detail here: Clearwater Cave by Mulu Caves Project). We have visited the Lady Cave and the Big Pit, then the Clearwater passage and the cave views, a great ending of our Mulu’s showcaves tour. Continue reading

【17返馬】20170716。姆魯 Mulu (7) 風洞 Wind Cave

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「風洞」之所以叫風洞,就是因為它的洞裡有風,呵呵!風洞裡的通道有寬有窄、起伏不平,尾端有一壯麗堂皇的「帝皇之室」。洞體因為中間有塊洞頂崩塌而開了天窗,在熱氣上升的作用下,加速從洞口往洞裡的空氣流動速度,形成了風,尤其是在天氣熱時,站在狹窄的瓶頸地帶就能感受到涼風習習。而「帝皇之室」內的鐘乳石、石筍、石柱等的形成也跟室內的空氣流動,或說風的方向有關聯。
A plankwalk leads from the riverbank to the entrance of Wind Cave, so named because of the cool breezes which can be felt at the narrow parts of the cave. Wind Cave, which is part of the Clearwater system, has many impressive stalactites, stalagmites, flowrocks, helitites and rock corals, some which are illuminated in the ‘King’s” Room. — from mulunationalpark.com Continue reading

【17返馬】20170716。姆魯 Mulu (6) 梅林瑙河與本南人聚居區 Melinau River & Penan Settlement

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第二天早上,在Marriott吃了豐富的早餐後,我們精神奕奕地出發。這次採水路,坐長舟沿著梅林瑙河往其上游的風洞和清水洞,途中參觀本南族的聚集區和當地的手工藝品市集。本南族原是姆魯一帶的少數民族,生活在原始森林裡,屬於游牧民族。每逢農耕換季和家族裡有人離世,就搬遷一次。1976年,政府為保護姆魯國家公園範圍內的原始生態環境,把本南人勸遷到政府規劃給他們的區域,開始定居生活。在打獵和遷農的活動被拘束後,本南人多進了國家公園和旅遊業服務,或在接受教育後離鄉背井到城市裡去工作。本南人的聚集區以老人、婦孺居多,來姆魯的遊客都會來參觀並買些手工藝品讓他們增加生活補貼。在姆魯國家公園的成立和現代文明生活的衝擊下,本南人已喪失了他們的傳統生活方式,從居無定所到不屬於他們原有文化的長屋,再過三、五十年會不會連本南語和本南習俗也消失了?
The next morning, after buffet breakfast at Mulu Marriott Resort, we continued our journey to Wind Cave and Clearwater Cave. We were travelling from Marriott to the caves, following Melinau River to its upstreams by long boat. On the way, we visited Penan Settlement and its traditional craft market. Penan people used to have nomadic culture, moving from one to another place in the nature forest. In 1976, the goverment started to protect the area of Mulu National Park, thus, Penan people had to leaving their forest and moving into the Penan Settlement or outside of the national park area. Insteads of hunting and planting here and there in forest, they are staying at long houses which are never been a part of their culture. They learn to have modern lifestyle, start to work in the national park or in tourisum. Their young generation is well educated and some of them move to cities to have even better life. When visitiors come to Penan Settlement, they meet modernized Penan people which most are old people and kids. Buying their handcraft may support their financial a bit, but it’s still a sad story to see how their culture is vanishing in this modern world. Continue reading

【17返馬】20170715。姆魯 Mulu (5) 鹿洞 Deer Cave

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在越南的山水洞(Sơn Đoòng Cave,目前世界最大的單體洞穴,參考YouTube上的3D模擬Oxalis的探險記錄Ryan Deboodt的洞內航拍)被發現以前,鹿洞(曾)是世界最大的洞穴。其實,專家都以各種標準(長度、寬度、高度、內容積等等)來衡量,誰最大還真的不好說。至2009年,鹿洞已知通道有4.1公里,南邊的洞口設有棧道讓遊客進入,參觀有174米寬、122米高的主洞。鹿洞裡住著幾百萬隻蝙蝠,排泄量以噸為計,所以,洞內充滿著亞摩尼亞的氣味,排泄物融入水裡,引來了巨鹿到此喝鹽水。當然,現今已沒有巨鹿的踪影,只留下了鹿洞為名。徬晚時分,只要天氣不差,都能在鹿洞外欣賞蝙蝠出洞,看那一批批的蝙蝠出洞覓食,就像一條條黑色的彩帶在空中飛舞。
Before discovery of Sơn Đoòng Cave in Vietnam (see YouTube: 3D Modeling, Oxalis Expedition 2017, or Drone video by Ryan Deboodt), Deer Cave was always claimed as the largest cave of the world. There’re still a lot of discussions about which cave is the largest, as there are no standard measurement for the largest cave passage. Until 2009, the known passage of Deer Cave is 4.1 km. The main chamber, which is partially lit by sunlight, is 174 meters wide and 122 meters high. There are millions of bats living in Deer Cave, and, if the weather is good, tourists can enjoy the spectacular view of dancing black belts emerging from the cave to search for food. Continue reading

【17返馬】20170715。姆魯 Mulu (4) 藍洞 Lang’s Cave

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藍洞是姆魯四個觀光石洞中最小的一個,但她的石灰岩景觀絕對值得一覽。
Lang’s Cave is the smallest of the show caves but its rock formations are well worth seeing. These are made all the more attractive by the strategically positioned spotlights which highlight stalactites and stalagmites. As the cave is relatively small and well-lit, it offers good opportunities to see some of its inhabitations such as bats, swiftlets and even cave-dwelling snakes. – from mulunationalpark.com Continue reading

【17返馬】20170715。姆魯 Mulu (3) 往鹿洞和藍洞 On the way to Deer Cave & Lang’s Cave

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我們參觀姆魯國家公園的行程都由Borneo Tropical Adventures(簡稱TA)安排。第一天下午去參觀藍洞和鹿洞,第二天早上參觀風洞和清水洞,這是純旅遊不變的走法,因為至今只有四個岩洞有完善的步道讓遊客有個輕鬆的旅程。想探險的人,可以選擇攀爬石峰(光攀峰就至少要三天兩夜),或是岩洞內的探險路線(良好的體能和心理素質,及基本的攀岩功夫是必要的)。姆魯國家公園的官方網站(點此)有提供更多景觀和玩法介紹。這輯照片是第一天下午往兩個岩洞的沿途景色。
Our tour was organized by Borneo Tropical Adventures (TA). As we only have chosen for 2D1N show caves programme, the activities were visiting Lang Cave and Deer Cave at first day’s afternoon, and visiting Wind Cave and Clearwater Cave in the next day morning. Untill nowadays, there are only 4 show caves open to tourists to explore the beauty of Mulu National Park in easy way. For those who like to have adventure experience, there are challenging activities such as adventure caving and the Pinnacles trail. At the official website of Mulu National Park (click here), you can obtain more information about this UNESCO heritage site and the ways to explore it leisurely and/or with challengings. These are the photos on the way to Lang’s Cave and Deer Cave.
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【17返馬】20170715-16。姆魯 Mulu (2) Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa

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Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa位於姆魯國家公園邊沿,是在熱帶森林中的五星級享受。她的前身是經營了20年的Mulu Royal Resort, 在2015年被納入萬豪國際Marriott International旗下後,重新包裝,以新的面貌提供頂級的酒店服務(相關新聞連結)。雖然姆魯的廉價住宿(Lodge)越來越多,我們此程還是選擇了星級酒店。我們三個人住一間房,含早餐。午餐和晚餐則是由旅行社安排到對岸的小餐廳吃合菜。這輯全是在Mulu Marriott拍的照片。
Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa is located next to UNESCO heritage Mulu National Park, a place where you can enjoy 5-stars luxury in tropical forest. Formerly known as Mulu Royal Resort for 20 years, this resort has been renovated and transformed into Mulu Marriott after becoming a member of Marriott International in 2015. We stayed here for one night, and these are the pictures taken at this beautiful resort.
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【17返馬】20170715。姆魯 Mulu (1) 啟程 Miri to Mulu

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續尼亞石洞之後,重頭戲來了:姆魯國家公園的兩天一夜遊。這是本人第四次去姆魯(是有點多,很多美里人都沒去過說),上次是2010年跟巴特去的,這次有湘群和大妹同行。因為往返美里姆魯的班機有限,去姆魯得早訂票,不然向隅的機率很高。也因為班次有限,機票價錢也跟著水漲船高,來回從馬幣300起跳。這輯是從美里到姆魯的照片。
This’s my fourth tour to Mulu, and last time was in 2010 with Bart. Together with XiangQun and Jessie, we have taken a 2D1N trip due to limited time. These’re the pictures from Miri to Mulu.
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【17返馬】20170714。日本餐廳 Excapade Japanese Cuisine (Miri Branch)

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從尼亞石洞回到美里,我們直奔汶萊著名日本餐廳Excapade在美里的分行,來品嚐美味的日本料理。
When we came back from Niah Cave, we went to Excapade (Miri Branch) to enjoy their famous Japanese cuisine. Continue reading

【17返馬】20170714。尼亞石洞 Niah Cave, Miri (2)

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上回是2005年跟巴特和好友運發一起來尼亞石洞,相隔十二年,這次舊地重遊,依然被這岩洞的壯觀氣魄所震撼。數數這應該是第五次造訪在鼎鼎有名的燕洞(因為產燕窩,本地人都叫它燕洞),亦是走得最慢、照片拍的最多的一次。可惜我們這四個女人被伸手不見五指、前後沒有他人的路段給嚇住,最後沒堅持走到壁畫洞,不然就是一套完整的尼亞石洞介紹。
This’s my 5th visiting to Niah Cave, and I am still fascinated by those amazing masterpieces of nature. This time, I did slow down my speed to take more pictures in dark caves. It’s a pity that we couldn’t make it to Painted Cave, and left a missing piece in this wonderful trip. Continue reading

【17返馬】20170714。尼亞石洞 Niah Cave, Miri (1)

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尼亞石洞有四萬年前的原始人遺骸和約1200年前的壁畫,是考古學家的天堂,也以產燕窩和旅遊業遠近馳名(參考維基)。既然湘群來美里玩,當然得帶她到著名的尼亞國家公園走走,開啟了她東馬自然之旅的第一炮。
Niah National Park is a popular tourist spot in Sarawak. It is an important prehistorical site for archaeology where human remains dating to 40,000 years ago and rock paintings dated as 1,200 years old have been found (wikipedia). As this is the virgin trip of XiangQun to Sarawak, we have to introduce her this unmissable location for sure. Continue reading